Threads of Tradition: Exploring Embroidery Masterpieces at the National Crafts Museum, New Delhi

Apr 24, 2025
4 min read

The rich and robust legacy of Indian textile is the witness of the magnificence of Indian craftsmen. A history of centuries woven with utmost delicacy has found its place in the National Crafts Museum & Hastkala (Handicrafts and Handlooms) Academy. As the land and demography of the country, the variety of Indian embroidery is vast and diverse. From Gujarat’s Patola to Bengal’s Nakshi Kantha, from Karnataka’s Kasuti to Punjab’s Chambal - the diversity of Indian embroidery is mesmerizing.

Almost every state has its own signature embroidery style. Sisha, Mekhla, Baluchari, Aari, Zardosi, Chikankari and many more styles that have evolved over centuries need to be thoroughly curated.

Source credit: https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/arts/on-textile-trail-of-india-at-the-new-gallery-at-national-crafts-museum/ — *Source credit*: https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/arts/on-textile-trail-of-india-at-the-new-gallery-at-national-crafts-museum/

An Ode to Indian Embroidery

Indian embroidery originated in the early days of the Indus civilization and has undergone a massive evolution since then. With the shifting socio-economic and political dynamics and the introduction of new religions and religious rituals, craftsmen created new styles. The cultural exchange between India and multiple nations has paved the way for fusion.

The most iconic and distinguished factor of Indian embroidery is its detailed and colorful expression. Be it a royal robe or a common quilt; artisans never fail to embellish the clothes with exquisite ornamentation.

New Delhi and adjacent areas such as Punjab, Lucknow, Banaras, etc., have seen the rise and fall of many emperors. Craftsmen in these areas were adept at producing some of the best works to satisfy his Highnesses.

The subtle work of gold, zari, or silver brocades reveals the extravaganza of the Mughal empire. The ensemble of Sikh, Maratha and Rajput turbans fabricate the opulent history of those regions.

The finesse of Bengal muslin and cotton works, along with Assamese Mekhla, prove the uniqueness of East Indian embroidery. South Indian embroidery has focused more on the intricate delicacy of stitching everyday life on fabric. One can now view the entire range of Indian embroidery at the National Crafts Museum.

National Crafts Museum - New Delhi

The National Crafts Museum and Hastkala Academy recently opened Indian Textiles Gallery II in New Delhi. It is a tribute to this great workmanship and its rare yet enduring legacy. This immersive and stunning exhibition, titled 'Tradition and Innovation', was curated by Sunil Sethi, President of the Fashion Design Council of India, and Jyotindra Jain, a famous art historian.

The gallery features as many as 250 pieces. Each piece breathes history, representing the unquestionable craftsmanship of Indian embroiderers. These pieces have been assorted and collected from 2600 museums. The collection is broadly categorized into three types.

Pre-Loom Embroidery: This section, also known as Ikat, is where visitors get to see the ancient artistry of transferring designs to the yarn before placing it on the loom.
On-Loom Embroidery: The design is entered into the loom while weaving brocade, muslin, jamdani, shawls, and sarees.
Post-Loom Embroidery: This section represents block printing, kalamkari, and phulkari techniques that are done once the cloth is woven.

A Time Travel through Indian Embroidery

The National Crafts Museum showcases some of the best embroidery works done by designer Payal Jain. The retrospective includes 15 installations where creations of her illustrious career spanning over 30 years have been captured.

The most remarkable corner of the gallery is the ‘Soul of a Woman’ section, which uses embroidery to capture women's pains and pleasures. In addition to the thematic excellence, the collection displays various materials apart from fabric used in Indian embroidery.

There is a section dedicated to pieces from the 'Vishwakarma' shows curated by the late textile conservator Martand Singh, also known as Mapu. ‘Vishwakarma’ featured an array of seven history and textile art exhibitions presented across the length and width of the country between 1982 and 1992. Supported by cultural activist Pupul Jayakar, this effort was essential in disseminating design concepts to artisans, weavers and artisan communities.

Today, as we head towards cross-cultural expression in art, the reference point of indigenous embroidery art will always be helpful.

Delhi Stitches Past and Present to Pave Way for Glorious Future

Delhi has been the hot spot for the royal throne for centuries. The Sultan, the Mughals, the British, and finally, the Indian Government have recognised Delhi as the capital. The boom in architecture, sculpture and painting during royal regimes had an enormous impact on embroidery as well.

For instance, the introduction of net and mesh embroidery is a direct influence of Muslim architecture such as Humayun Tomb. Similarly, arcs, domes, and floral patterns found their way to Indian embroidery during the Mughal Empire.

The legacy of the glorious past is kept alive by the current Delhi craftsmen. One can find the finest examples of timeless artistry of Indian embroidery in places like such as:

Kinari Market

Kinari Market is preferred by visitors and craft enthusiasts for its variety and fine blend of fancy clothes and embellished embroidery pieces. One can also find decorated jewellery boxes, ornamented lamps and curved wooden items in Kinari Market.

Meena Market

Meena Market is situated right beside Jama Masjid. This place holds the Old Delhi charm not only in its demeanour but also in the items it offers. One can look for traditional Indian embroidery and stitch-works, reminiscent of the Mughal period in Meena Market.

Chawri Bazar

It is the ideal place to discover the variety of Indian handicrafts. From fancy beads to clothes with gorgeous gold and silver rims, from minimalist styles to heavily embroidered dresses, Chawri Bazar offers anything and everything one can imagine.

Chandni Chowk

It is the confluence of multiple segments. Moti Bazar, Paranthe Wali Gali, and Chor Bazar are the most prominent ones. Local sellers trade some of the exquisite pieces of Kurtas, Salwars, Dresses and other clothes at a reasonably low price.

Besides these markets, there are other places such as Dilli Haat, Lajpat Nagar Central Market, etc. where tradesmen sell clothes that bear the aura of true Indian embroidery artistry.

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