Evolution of Indian Embroidery Style
- 1 day ago
- 4 min read
The evolution of Indian embroidery is no less than a fairytale. In its nascent days, Indian embroidery was a small-scale cottage industry. The craft was passed on from one generation to the next within the family. Today, Indian embroidery has found its place in the global market. The sheer brilliance of artistry, precision of threadwork, and remarkably rich aesthetic appeal of Indian embroidery caught the attention of the world. It is revered by art enthusiasts, collected by connoisseurs, and marketed by traders.
From persons of eminence to the masses, Indian embroidery has embraced everyone. The evolution of Indian embroidery reflects the rich cultural heritage and diverse traditions of the subcontinent. Here's an overview of its journey through history.
Ancient History of Indian Embroidery
Indus Valley and Early Examples
The origins of Indian embroidery trace back to the ancient Indus Valley civilization (circa 3300–1300 BCE), where early examples of textile arts, including fragments of woven and decorated fabrics, have been uncovered at archaeological sites like Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa. Though actual embroidery samples have not survived, artifacts like needles, spindle whorls, and terracotta figurines hint at the use of cloth adorned with intricate designs. This early craftsmanship likely laid the foundation for the diverse embroidery traditions that would flourish across India.
Vedic Era to Gupta Period
During the Vedic era (1500–500 BCE) through to the Gupta period (circa 320–550 CE), embroidered clothing was commonly associated with religious symbolism and social status. Motifs during this era often reflected elements of nature, such as lotus flowers, leaves, and animals, symbolizing prosperity, spirituality, and harmony. Cotton and silk were commonly used, with embellishments of beads and dyed threads. Embroidered garments and textiles became associated with religious ceremonies and royal households, marking embroidery as a culturally significant art form that blended spirituality and social identity.
Mughal Impact
The arrival of the Mughals in the 16th century significantly transformed Indian embroidery, introducing styles like Zardozi (gold thread embroidery) and Aari (fine chain stitch) work. Zardozi was particularly popular in royal courts, with elaborate designs featuring real gold and silver threads, pearls, and precious stones. Persian influences under the Mughals introduced floral and geometric patterns, resulting in a delicate fusion of Indian and Persian designs.
Rajputana and Deccan Styles
In Rajasthan (Rajputana) and the Deccan kingdoms, regional rulers also patronized distinctive embroidery styles that developed independently yet drew from Mughal influence. Rajasthani embroidery, often vibrant and richly colored, was known for mirror work and motifs inspired by local flora, fauna, and folklore, reflecting the semi-arid desert culture.
In contrast, the Deccan region embraced Kasar and Banjara embroidery, using colorful threads and mirrors with designs influenced by the Persian-Arabic aesthetic. Each region’s embroidery evolved to reflect the unique environment, culture, and artistic values of its people, showcasing India’s textile diversity.
Regional Embroidery Styles and their Evolution
The vastness of India has led to numerous adaptations in embroidery styles and patterns. As a result, each region now has its own traditional embroidery that reflects its unique cultural significance.
Phulkari of Punjab
Phulkari, which means "flower work," originated as a traditional Punjabi embroidery that has roots in village life and family traditions. Initially practiced by women, Phulkari used darning stitches to create vibrant, floral patterns on odhanis (shawls), dupattas, and chaddars. Over time, it evolved from simple, linear designs to more complex patterns known as Bagh (garden), where the entire fabric was covered with elaborate stitchwork.
You can find the best Phulkari work in the local markets of Punjab. The Patiala and Amritsar Markets, for instance, are the best places you can visit followed by Phulkari Craft Village, Nabha. The samples can also be found in Crafts Museum, New Delhi, the Virasat-e-Khalsa Museum, Anandpur Sahib, Punjab and the Museum of Sacred Art, Amritsar.
Kashida of Kashmir
Kashida, or Kashmiri embroidery, is a form of needlework known for its finely detailed nature-inspired designs, often featuring chinar leaves, flowers, birds, and other elements reflecting the natural beauty of Kashmir.
Originally embroidered on woolen shawls, Kashida work gradually extended to silk and cotton fabrics. Trade along the Silk Route introduced new materials and techniques, giving Kashida its distinct blend of Persian and Indian motifs.
You can find amazing examples of Kashida in the work of the designer Rohit Bal, who belonged to Srinagar, Kashmir.
Kantha of Bengal
Kantha embroidery began as a humble rural craft in Bengal, where women would repurpose old sarees and cloth by stitching them together with running stitches to create blankets and quilts. The designs were often simple yet expressive, featuring themes from daily life, folklore, and mythology.
Chikankari of Lucknow
Chikankari, the delicate white-on-white embroidery from Lucknow, traces its origins to the Mughal era and is believed to have been brought to India by the Persian court. Traditionally worked on muslin, the technique involves intricate stitches that create floral patterns and geometric motifs, offering a sophisticated elegance.
Indian fashion designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are famous for their beautiful Chikankari work, mixing traditional embroidery with modern style in their elegant collections.
Final Words
The evolution of Indian embroidery captures the story of a craft shaped by centuries of cultural exchange, royal patronage, and regional diversity. Today, this art form continues to thrive, adapting to modern styles while retaining its heritage. As designers and artisans revive traditional techniques and motifs, Indian embroidery holds a unique place in both local culture and global fashion, celebrating its past while weaving new stories on fabric.
Citation
"Indian Embroidery" *Victoria and Albert Museum, 2024, https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/indian-embroidery?srsltid=AfmBOoqujqzhX2Rzlk8fKVvoKR6nnchWT1hsevj5Wxjea2joG38pksLg
Saeid, Mir. "Exploring the Artistry of Indian Embroidery", Kashmirica, July 24, 2023, https://www.kashmirica.com/blog/indian-embroidery/
Srivastava, Shraddha. "Exploring Embroidery in India" NoName, hello@nonameglobal.com, December 14, 2023, https://www.nonameglobal.com/post/exploring-embroidery-in-india#
Fotheringham, Avalon. Indian Textile Patterns and Techniques: A Sourcebook. London: Thames and Hudson, 2019.
