Goldwork

The name 'Goldwork Embroidery' refers to the technique of decorating fabrics with metallic gold or silver threads. Historically, this craft has been known by various names across different cultures. It was often referred to as 'acupuncture' or 'painting with a needle.' Metal thread embroidery is deeply intertwined with the culture and religious significance of many regions.

In addition to its association with wealth, power, and artistic excellence throughout the ages, Goldwork Embroidery had an important role in cultural exchange and trade among ancient civilizations. From the Silk Road to maritime trade routes, the intricate artistry of metal thread embroidery traveled far and wide, influencing artistic traditions and techniques.

No wonder, Goldwork Embroidery has a rich heritage and a story spanning generations. Filled with symbolism and unique craftsmanship, it quickly spread in different countries, leaving an indelible mark on cultures worldwide.

Join me on a journey through time and space as we explore the fascinating development of Goldwork Embroidery styles across different eras.

Ancient Civilizations

Metal thread embroidery has its origins in Asia and a long-lasting history of over 2000 years. According to archaeological research, the roots of Goldwork Embroidery can be traced back to ancient China during the Shang dynasty (c. 1570 BC – c. 1045 BC). This intricate embroidery style was mainly used for ceremonial and imperial clothing, such as robes and rank badges, as well as in other prehistoric civilizations like Egypt, Assyria, and Babylonia.

In China, the combination of two prized materials, gold and silk, was common practice. This technique, known as Chinese ornamental gold silk, produced exceptionally valuable garments, incorporating gold ornamentation including the use of gold foil, gold powder, and gold thread.

A fascinating find is a Court Robe with Goldwork Embroidery, believed to be Chinese and predating 1820. It was surprisingly found in a London antique shop in 1964. The robe showcases a masterful design with goldwork featuring flowing clouds and dragons.

The Middle Ages

Goldwork Embroidery continued to develop over the ages, reaching its peak during medieval times, especially in the Byzantine Empire. It was often used to adorn and allure tapestries, ceremonial robes, and religious garments. Artisans used the most lavish materials, such as silk, gold, and silver threads to create detailed embroidery with religious or traditional motifs, decorating church altars and the homes of wealthy people.

Remarkably, in the 12th Century, England became the center of Goldwork Embroidery, known as 'Opus Anglicanum' in Latin, translated as 'English work.'

Only fragments of a chasuble in poor condition of the earliest English goldwork example, dating back to the 9th century, are kept in Maaseik, Belgium. Nonetheless, they display the main characteristics of Opus Anglicanum style: figurative religious scenes embroidered on linen, using split stitches and colored silks, with pearl embellishments, and often involving underside couching for background details.

In the 14th Century, the Black Death pandemic contributed to the end of the era of Opus Anglicanum. Fortunately, the largest, mesmerizing collection of this work is preserved and exhibited in the V&A Museum, UK.

Renaissance

After the Middle Ages, the Renaissance marked a significant 'rebirth' era for various art forms, and Golden Embroidery was no exception. Artisans started exploring new techniques and designs. Departing from religious motifs, it took a new direction toward self-expression in luxury fashion. To showcase their status and privilege, wealthy aristocrats adorned themselves with accessories and garments featuring bold Goldwork Embroidery designs.

In this era, Florence and Venice in Italy became leading centers for Goldwork Embroidery. Designs started creating natural themes like flowers, fruits, and animals, showing the influence of classical art and the rediscovery of ancient cultures.

Goldwork Embroidery retained an important place during the Baroque period in Europe. It continued to adorn the clothing of nobility and royalty, as well as ecclesiastical vestments and altar cloths.

Early Modern Period

I believe, at least for once, the brilliance of golden threads on military uniforms caught your attention and you have noticed delicately embroidered ornaments created by skillful artisans. In England and Europe, Goldwork Embroidery took a main place in adorning both regimental and ceremonial garments using card padding for couching, to receive a sharp, outlined form.

Metal thread embroidery was also used to garnish the ceremonial trappings of horses. It promoted and represented the power, wealth, and well-being of the state.

Aside from ceremonial garments, England became a center of fashion for Goldwork Embroidery, decorating both dresses and men's suits. The designs were bold and luxurious, using metal and silk threads on dark, lavish materials, and embellishing them with gleaming pearls and gems.

Speaking of this period, I must mention the painting - 'Armada Portrait' 1533-1603, which features a beautifully embroidered piece of art worn by Queen Elizabeth I.

In the early 19th century, Goldwork Embroidery slowly faded from fashion, seeing limited use. Embroiderers began experimenting with different kinds of fabrics and materials, which was a good end for great beginnings for the Modern Era. But before we travel further in time, let's first uncover more about the shimmering form of Art.