top of page

Georgia

Author: Mariam Kurashvili

History and Treasures of Georgian Embroidery


Step into the vibrant world of Georgian embroidery, where every stitch is a meaningful reflection of the history, culture, and heritage of the majestic Caucasus Mountains.


The origins of Georgian embroidery date back centuries, with its roots reaching as far as the Bronze Age when it became an integral part of family traditions. Fascinatingly, even in ancient times, due to the location of the country, climatic conditions, and terrain Georgia had a rich foundation for producing all the necessary materials for embroidery, including various threads, fabrics, and tools. As a result, this needlework became an essential aspect of daily life, woven into the fabric of Georgian culture. 


Embroidery in Sakartvelo varies by region, each with its own unique styles and significance, demonstrating the landscapes, traditions, and lifestyle of its people. From home decor to clothing, bags, and hats, to ecclesiastical garments, where special techniques are employed, showcasing the depth and diversity of this traditional craft. 


Multi-Cultural Influences on Georgian Embroidery


Referring to the previously mentioned, Georgia's advantageous location along commerce routes between Europe and Asia, together with its manifold natural resources, has facilitated both production and trade. Accordingly, over the centuries, the country has been shaped by various historical events and influenced by different cultures, such as Byzantine, Persian, and Ottoman, among others. This influence is vividly reflected in its art forms, including embroidery. The samples discovered by archaeologists, whether a piece of fabric embroidered with ornaments, miniature paintings, or a figure depicted on a stone relief in a robe with embroidery, reflect both the touch of traditional Georgian embroidery and the influence of different countries on it over time.


Source credit: Dzveli Qartuli Naqargoba 
Source credit: Dzveli Qartuli Naqargoba 

A significant example of the Byzantine influence on Georgian embroidery is found in a slab from the Bolnisi Sioni Cathedral (5th century). The image portrays a figure, likely a public authority, adorned in an intricately embroidered costume characterized by geometric patterns arranged in circular shapes. This use of symmetrical designs, along with stylized floral elements, vibrant colors, and elaborate borders, reflects the impact of Byzantine aesthetics on Georgian embroidery.


Among the remarkable discoveries, one stands out — the depiction of the "genealogical tree" of one of the Georgian feudal societies on the Kataula pillar, dating back to the 7th century. 


 This exceptional find offers invaluable insights into Georgian historical costume and the ancient art of embroidery. It features a unique design, reminiscent of railroad tracks.


Source credit: Dzveli Qartuli Naqargoba
Source credit: Dzveli Qartuli Naqargoba

On the relief, we see a noblewoman adorned in garments intricately embroidered with detailed patterns. Her inner garment has a plain design, while her mantle is draped in luxurious fabric, embellished with a golden border along the edges. Equally fascinating is the depiction of another noblewoman on a different part of the relief, likely wearing a lavish fur-trimmed cape adorned with sophisticated embroidery.


The Byzantine-style garment worn by the historical figure Grigol Vipatos is also depicted on the relief, garnished with rich and fascinating embroidery.


These discoveries not only provide insight into the magnificent attire of Sakartvelo but also highlight the delicate craft and expressive skill of ancient Georgian needlework.


Significance of Embroidery in Religion


Georgian embroidery holds profound cultural value throughout the country's rich history, serving as a reflection of the locals’ enduring artistic traditions. Immersed within the delicate stitches and vibrant patterns are narratives of tradition, identity, and resilience, showcasing the multifaceted tapestry of Georgian society. For centuries, local women have spread their embroidery skills from generation to generation, passing not just a technical mastery, but also beliefs, and stories of their ancestors. These skills and narratives have been transformed into unique art pieces, such as traditional costumes, religious garments, and decor, which define the nation's collective heritage.


Embroidery in Sakartvelo is often used to incorporate symbols and motifs that hold deep cultural and religious significance. These symbols, ranging from geometric patterns to stylized flora and fauna, not only adorn textiles but also help to express identity and spiritual beliefs. Hence, ecclesiastical embroidery stands as a cornerstone of Georgian history, deeply rooted in the culture. Over the centuries, the tradition of creating embroidered religious garments and icons has become an integral part of Georgian people. Inscriptions found on ecclesiastical embroidery, along with historical documents detailing the lives of churches and monasteries, offer insights into the remarkableness of this art form. Religious embroidery was not only crafted within the sacred confines of churches and monasteries but also by noble families, emphasizing its widespread importance.


Moreover, the tradition of donating embroidered pieces to the church further highlights the esteemed status of ecclesiastical embroidery within Georgian culture. These presented embroideries served not only as symbols of piety and loyalty but also as expressions of collective solidarity and reverence for the divine. Through their delicate designs and accomplished craftsmanship, religious embroideries served to embellish sacred spaces, magnifying the spiritual ambiance and visual glory of Georgian churches and monasteries. 


Today, the tradition of ecclesiastical embroidery continues to endure, with artisans maintaining a treasure of old techniques. Through ongoing efforts to document and conserve this rich tradition, Georgian religious embroidery remains an important testament to the legacy of faith, culture, and craftsmanship in Sakartvelo’s heritage.


Embroidery in Other Creative Fields

 


Source credit: Qartulia
Source credit: Qartulia

Georgian needlework also has a rich historical application in various creative fields, especially in fashion and decorative arts. Throughout history, it has been used to adorn traditional costumes, textiles, and household items, showcasing spectacular patterns, vibrant colors, and efficient craftsmanship.

 





In fashion, it has been a leading attribute of traditional clothing, for example, such as the Chokha, the national male garment, typically made of wool and adorned with detailed embroidery along the collar, cuffs, and front panels. The embroidery on the Chokha often incorporates complex geometric patterns, as beautifully embroidered as for traditional women's dresses and accessories. The silhouette and design of the dress varied according to the region, it is commonly embellished with embroidery along the neckline, sleeves, and hem, applying floral patterns or incorporating geometric motifs.


Georgian embroidery techniques have also influenced contemporary fashion designers, who incorporate elements of traditional local needlework into modern clothing and accessories. These new interpretations not only pay homage to Georgian traditions and culture but also serve as a bridge between the past and present, fostering cross-cultural appreciation and understanding while elevating the artistry and craftsmanship of Sakartvelo’s embroidery to a global audience.


Beyond fashion, Georgian embroidery has been applied to a wide range of creative fields, including interior design, home decor, and art. Embroidered textiles are used to decorate homes, adorn furnishings, and create ornamental art pieces, showcasing the beauty and cultural significance of Georgian needlework.



Khevsuruli Embroidery


Hailing from the magnificent Khevsureti region in eastern Sakartvelo Khevsuruli Embroidery is renowned for its captivating vibrant colors and stylized floral motifs. Common designs crafted by masterful artisans include crosses, flowers, leaves, and vines, often adorned with metallic threads to enhance texture and shine. This traditional embroidery style is deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of the Khevsureti region, with each motif carrying symbolic significance. For example, the cross motif symbolizes faith and protection, while floral patterns represent nature and fertility. 


The primary stitch used in Khevsuruli embroidery is the cross-stitch, which adds to the detailed beauty of the designs. In addition to its decorative purpose, Khevsuruli embroidery also serves practical functions in daily life. Embroidered textiles are commonly used to make traditional clothing, including robes, sashes, and headscarves worn by both men and women in the region. Because of its individual form and unique design, adorned with cross-shaped patterns, the Khevsuruli costume attracted the attention of numerous travelers and researchers. These garments are not only stylish but also provide warmth and protection from the harsh mountain climate. 


Today, Khevsuruli embroidery continues to thrive as a cherished art form, it is celebrated through festivals, exhibitions, and workshops held in the region and beyond. These events provide an opportunity for artisans to showcase their craftsmanship and share their knowledge.


Svanetian Embroidery 

 

Interestingly, Svanetian Embroidery, originating from the breathtaking region of Svaneti in northwestern Georgia, displays bold geometric patterns skilfully arranged into intricate motifs such as stars, crosses, and rhombuses. In addition to these geometric designs, Svanetian motifs often feature representations of natural elements like mountains, trees, and animals, reflecting the stunning landscape and wildlife of the region. 


A notable characteristic of Svanetian Embroidery is its use of various stitching techniques, including cross-stitch, satin stitch, and chain stitch, which enables artisans to infuse their creations with depth and texture, adding richness and complexity to the finished pieces. Beyond its aesthetic allure, Svanetian Embroidery serves a practical purpose in everyday life, embellishing clothing, household items, and ceremonial garments. It is frequently used to adorn traditional costumes worn during special occasions and festivals, showing a touch of elegance and tradition to these celebrations.


Adjarian Embroidery 

 

Additionally, I cannot overlook the captivating region of Adjara, nestled in southwestern Georgia, famous for its breathtaking nature. Adjarian traditional embroidery has been officially recognized as an intangible cultural heritage, cherished and passed down through generations. In Adjara, embroidery held special significance as part of a bride's dowry. The designs are rich and diverse, featuring symbols such as crosses, stars, rhombuses, birds, fish, and solar motifs, alongside depictions of deer, carnations, and intricate floral patterns. Especially captivating are the various interpretations of the Tree of Life theme, offering insightful glimpses into the region's cultural heritage.


Beyond the regions mentioned above, embroidery was widespread across the whole country, in various other areas of Georgia, each contributing its unique styles and techniques to the rich culture of Georgian textile art. In Guria, for example, skilled artisans created vibrant embroidered designs reflecting the region's coastal culture and flourishing landscapes. In Kartli, embroidery techniques were developed to embrace geometric patterns and motifs inspired by the region's historical importance. From the fruitful plains of Kakheti to the rugged terrain of Tusheti, embroidery thrived as a cherished tradition, demonstrating the mixed cultural heritage and artistic talent of the Georgian people.


The most common techniques used to create magnificent pieces of art, reflecting the mastery and artistry of the locals, include Cross-stitch Embroidery, Tambour Embroidery, Goldwork Embroidery, and Beadwork Embroidery. Stay engaged, as we delve into the intricate details of these marvelous techniques later in the article.


Common Embroidery Techniques in Georgia


In Sakartvelo, magnificent embroidered pieces, including traditional costumes, accessories, and home decor, were created using specific and unique embroidery techniques, such as Cross-stitch Embroidery, Goldwork Embroidery, Tambour Embroidery, and Beadwork Embroidery. Although it is challenging to pinpoint the exact time and place of embroidery's origin, archaeological findings suggest it has been practiced for centuries, dating back to ancient times. 


Today, needlework continues to flourish in Sakartvelo, showing the traditional techniques in workshops, exhibitions, and festivals. These events ensure the rich tradition remains vibrant and relevant in Georgian culture.


If you would like to experience the majestic world of Georgian embroidery, visit the Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts which houses the largest collection of Georgian embroidery, located on 2/4 Aleksandr Pushkin Street, Tbilisi.


Cross-stitch Embroidery



Cross-stitch is a foundational embroidery type that has been used in many regions. Artisans utilized a variety of materials, including colorful threads made from silk, wool, or cotton. Sometimes metallic threads are also incorporated to add shimmer and texture to the designs.


The Cross-stitch technique involves creating X-shaped stitches to form patterns and motifs on the fabric, with designs varying from region to region, reflecting the unique cultural heritage of each area. For example, in eastern Georgia, it may incorporate stylized floral motifs, while in western regions, the cross-stitch technique might feature more intricate geometric patterns.


Historically, Cross-stitch Embroidery has been used to embellish a wide range of items, like traditional Georgian costumes, vests, and skirts, as well as household items such as tablecloths, napkins, and decorative textiles, adding a touch of culture and beauty to everyday objects.


Goldwork Embroidery

 

Another mesmerizing needlework technique widespread in the country is Goldwork Embroidery. Interestingly, according to samples found by researchers, Georgian artisans were involved in producing gilded threads, while also importing them from other countries.


Embroiderers typically used various materials, including gold and silver threads, as well as metallic wires, to create special designs and embellishments on fabrics. Silk thread was also commonly used for adding finer details and magnifying the overall texture and appearance of the pieces.


The craftsmanship involved in Goldwork Embroidery was highly esteemed, with skilled artisans accurately weaving difficult patterns using precious metals. These lavish textiles adorned palaces, churches, and noble residences, symbolizing wealth, status, and divine reverence. 


The tradition of adorning ecclesiastical garments with Goldwork Embroidery holds profound importance in Georgia's religious and cultural heritage. Experienced artisans dedicate countless hours to meticulously weaving patterns and motifs, often incorporating religious symbols and iconography that hold deep spiritual meaning.

Beyond their religious meaning, ecclesiastical garments adorned with golden threadwork are treasured as cultural artifacts and symbols of Georgia's enduring faith and devotion. 


Fascinatingly, in previous centuries, Goldwork Embroidery played an important role in the lives of noblewomen. Historical records indicate that Queen Tamar of Georgia spent her free time creating Goldwork Embroideries and selling the pieces to assist those in need.


Today, examples of Georgian goldwork embroidery can be found in museums, churches, and private collections, serving as reminders of the country's legacy. Notably, the Kutaisi State Historical Museum, located at 18 Pushkin Street, preserves an incredible collection of secular clothes richly ornamented with gold embroidery, intended for religious rituals and church items.


Tambour Embroidery


Originating from the spectacular region of Svaneti in Georgia, Tambour Embroidery is a delicate and intricate needlework technique that holds a notable presence in the country's textile artistry. This technique involves creating delicate patterns using a tambour hook to form loops of thread on fabric stretched over a frame. Typically employing fine threads, such as silk or cotton, Tambour Embroidery produces elegant designs characterized by their fine detail and texture.


Requiring precision and skill, this method results in stunning designs often seen embellishing traditional Georgian costumes, ceremonial garments, and decorative textiles. Tambour Embroidery adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to these pieces, elevating their aesthetic allure and cultural significance. Furthermore, this needlework has found its way into contemporary fashion, with designers incorporating this wonderful practice into modern clothing and accessories, thereby demonstrating the beauty and versatility of Georgian embroidery traditions.


Beadwork Embroidery 


Beadwork Embroidery in Sakartvelo found its place in adorning various items, from small pouches used for storing men's artificial mustaches to embellishing religious garments with pearls, beads, or precious stones. 


It is a spectacular craft that has adorned textiles for generations, although its specific origins within the country remain somewhat mysterious. This technique requires meticulously stitching beads onto fabric to create stunning patterns and motifs. 


Over the years, Beadwork Embroidery has graced traditional Georgian attire, ceremonial ensembles, and decorative fabrics, bringing a sense of grace and harmony.


This article is just one thread woven into the timeless tapestry of Georgian embroidery culture and traditions. From deeply rooted in ancient times to modernity, embroidered art pieces maintain and carry the story of the country's heritage and artistry legacy. Besides, the art form also serves as a symbol of Georgian identity and pride.


Captivated by its vibrant colors and intricate stitches, today, more Georgian enthusiasts have embraced embroidery as a tool for expression and creativity in their artistic endeavors.

Resources


  1. Ugrekhelidze Irina, Eliso Chubinidze. “ქარგვა - მეთოდური მითითება”. Kutaisi: Akaki Tsereteli State University, 2017.
  2. Lanchava Omar, Eliso Chubinidze, Davit Sulaberidze, Nona Kartsidze, Nino Sarava, Ana Doghonadze, Margalita Mskhiladze, Irina Ugrekhelidze. “ძველი ქართული ნაქარგობა წერილობით წყაროებში, არქეოლოგიურ მასალებსა და ხელოვნების ძეგლებში”. Kutaisi: Shota Rustaveli National Science Foundation of Georgia, 2017.

  3. Javakhishvili, Iv. “მასალები საქართველოს შინამრეწველობისა და წვრილი ხელოსნობის ისტორიისათვის: ტომი 2:ნაწილი 2: ქსოვა. ღებვა. ქარგვა. Edited by V. Japharidze. Tbilisi: Science, 1982.

  4. Chigogidze, Khatuna. “ქართული ნაქარგობა და მისი სახეები.” The Kviris Palitra magazine, May 2, 2016.  https://kvirispalitra.ge/article/29592-qarthuli-naqargoba-da-misi-sakheebi/

  5. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. “From Georgia, with Embroidery.” TRC Leiden, May 14, 2022. https://www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/about-us/archive/past-exhibitions/102-news/1397-from-georgia

  6. “Ქართული Ტრადიციული Სამოსი.” Georgia Travel. Accessed May 16, 2024. https://georgia.travel/ka/%E1%83%A5%E1%83%90%E1%83%A0%E1%83%97%E1%83%A3%E1%83%9A%E1%83%98-%E1%83%A2%E1%83%A0%E1%83%90%E1%83%93%E1%83%98%E1%83%AA%E1%83%98%E1%83%A3%E1%83%9A%E1%83%98-%E1%83%A1%E1%83%90%E1%83%9B%E1%83%9D%E1%83%A1%E1%83%98

bottom of page