Traditional Embroidery of the World

Embroidery, a traditional craft that involves using a needle and thread to create decorative designs on fabric, is an authentic illustration of what is traditional embroidery. Originating from various cultures globally, this art form incorporates unique symbols, styles, and techniques that reflect the diverse values, traditions, and aesthetics of its practitioners. Through detailed stitches in silk, wool, or metallic threads, embroidery serves as a rich expression of cultural heritage, offering insights into the historical and social fabric of different communities.

Origins of Indian Embroidery

The origins of Indian embroidery are as ancient as the civilization itself, with evidence dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization where cotton was spun, woven, and dyed for decorative purposes. Traditional embroideries of India began as a means of personalizing clothing and home furnishings, evolving over centuries with influences from local traditions and available materials.

Archaeological evidence from sites like Mohenjo-Daro and the Ajanta caves shows that embroidery was important for both decoration and religious ceremonies as early as 1500 BCE.

Influences from Abroad

In India, the arrival of the Mughals in the 16th century introduced Persian motifs and sophisticated embroidery techniques like zardozi - an elaborate form of embroidery using gold and silver threads, which was used to embellish the robes of the royalty. Similarly, trade routes such as the Silk Road brought techniques and styles from Central Asia and the Middle East.

Embroidery is often associated with auspiciousness and is deeply intertwined with religious and cultural rituals. For instance, the phulkari embroidery of Punjab is traditionally made by mothers for the weddings of their daughters, rich in colors and motifs that symbolize fertility and prosperity.

What sets Indian embroidery apart is its astonishing variety and the specificity of its regional styles. From the intricate traditional kantha embroidery of Bengal to the mirror work of Gujarat, each style stands out with its unique techniques, materials, and motifs, reflective of the local ethos and environment.

Historical Applications

Indian embroidery has been a crucial aspect of the socio-economic fabric of various regions. Embroidered garments and textiles were considered valuable trade goods in the ancient and medieval periods.

In modern times, these embroidery styles have been seamlessly incorporated into contemporary fashion, both in India and globally, influencing designers and fashion houses worldwide.

Aari - Kutch, Gujarat

Aari embroidery is known for its accurate and delicate needlework. It originates from the Mughal era around the 12th century. It began in the region of Kutch, Gujarat, and quickly became favored among royalty and aristocrats for its sophisticated designs and intricate detailing. The style spread to other parts of the country, notably Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, as artisans migrated in search of new patronage. Each region introduced subtle variations to the Aari technique, adapting it to local tastes and incorporating regional motifs and materials, which enriched the diversity of the designs.

Aari embroidery is distinct from other types of embroidery like the English goldwork. It primarily uses a special hook known as an Aari, which creates loops and chain stitch effects, giving the embroidery a raised, three-dimensional look. This technique allows for finer details and a more textured finish. Traditional materials used include silk threads, beads, and even precious stones, setting it apart in terms of materials and tools used.

Aari work was done by skilled artisans, often men, who used to draw amazing traditional Kutch embroidery motifs inspired by floral patterns, birds, leaves, etc. Today, it is still prevalent in high fashion and traditional Indian bridal wear. An example of Aari embroidery can be viewed at the Calico Museum of Textiles, located at The Retreat, Airport Road, Opp. RTO, Ahmedabad, Gujarat. This museum houses an extensive collection of Indian textiles, offering insight into the intricate art of Aari embroidery.

Banjara Embroidery - Rajasthan

Banjara embroidery, a vibrant and distinctive form of traditional embroidery from India, originated from the Banjara tribe, historically known as nomadic traders. This traditional embroidery began in the regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat and later spread to other parts of India, including Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. Its evolution over time was influenced by the interactions of the tribe with various cultures during their migrations, leading to its adaptation to local tastes and variations in style and technique.

The cultural influences on Banjara embroidery are deeply rooted in the lifestyle and beliefs of the Banjaras (tribe). Motifs used in this embroidery style often include geometric patterns and symbols from nature, reflecting their close relationship with their environment.

Heer Bharat or Banni - Gujarat

Heer Bharat or Banni embroidery, originating from the Banni or Kutch region of Gujarat, is a celebrated form of traditional embroidery of India. Known for its rich colors and intricate designs, this embroidery style dates back several centuries, with evidence suggesting its presence since the 16th century when local communities began to embellish their clothing and household items as a form of art and identity.

The cultural influences on Banni embroidery are deeply rooted in the traditions of the local tribes of Gujarat. The designs often feature motifs inspired by the surroundings and beliefs, such as animals, flowers, and geometric patterns.

Traditionally, this embroidery was done by the women of the community, serving both as a creative outlet and a means of storytelling. It was primarily used to decorate garments such as skirts, blouses, and shawls, as well as home decor items like wall hangings and bedspreads. Today, Banni embroidery continues to be popular, both in traditional uses and modern fashion, where it adds a touch of Indian heritage to contemporary designs.

Chamba Rumal - Himachal Pradesh

Chamba Rumal, originating from the Chamba region in Himachal Pradesh, is a distinguished form of traditional embroidery of India known for its intricate and refined artistry. This form of embroidery dates back to the 17th century and is highly valued for its unique style of do-rukha (double-sided) embroidery, which allows the artwork to be identical on both sides of the cloth.

Chamba Rumal embroidery began in the royal courts of the Chamba kingdom, where it was patronized by the rulers and nobility. Originally confined to the royal households, Chamba Rumal embroidery gradually spread to other regions through the movement of craftsmen seeking new patrons. Over time, artisans in neighboring regions like Kangra and Shimla adopted this embroidery style, introducing slight variations in motifs and techniques to suit local tastes.

Today, Chamba Rumal is not only a cherished heirloom in households but also a valuable piece in the collections of art lovers and museums. It continues to be used in traditional settings and occasionally in modern fashion, where its exquisite craftsmanship is highlighted in accessories and home decor.

Chikankari - Uttar Pradesh

Chikankari is among the most popular traditional embroideries of India hailing from Uttar Pradesh, notably from the city of Lucknow. The origins of Chikankari are often attributed to the Mughal period, with some legends suggesting that it was introduced by Nur Jahan, the wife of Mughal Emperor Jahangir.

What sets Chikankari apart from other forms of traditional embroidery in India is its subtlety and sophistication. Unlike richer, more opulent styles, Chikankari is celebrated for its finesse and the use of white-on-white embroidery, which emphasizes shadow work.

Chikankari continues to hold a place of prestige in the world of fashion, both in India and internationally. It is one of the most popular embroideries that is found in almost every wardrobe. It is often featured in designer collections and bridal trousseau. The Lucknow State Museum in Uttar Pradesh houses a collection of Chikankari garments and textiles, showcasing the evolution and enduring charm of this art form.

Gota - Jaipur, Rajasthan

Gota embroidery, a unique and celebratory art form, originates from Jaipur and other parts of Rajasthan. This traditional embroidery is known for its vibrant use of gold and silver ribbons, which are applied onto fabric through an intricate sewing technique. Historically linked to the royal families and aristocracy of Rajasthan, Gota work was initially used to adorn attire for festive occasions and religious ceremonies.

The tradition began in the royal courts of Rajasthan, where the shimmering effects of Gota embroidery were meant to reflect the typical of regal celebrations. This embroidery style uses small pieces of zari ribbon, which are sewn onto finer fabrics like silk and satin to create elaborate patterns. The artistry of Gota is still visible during local festivals and weddings in Jaipur. Also, Gota embroidery is used extensively in contemporary fashion design, especially in clothing and accessories of women.

Kamal Kadai - Andhra Pradesh

Kamal kadai is a distinctive form of embroidery originating from Andhra Pradesh, known for its unique weaving and needlework techniques that create a raised, three-dimensional effect on the fabric. This style is particularly celebrated for its depiction of floral motifs, which is where it gets its name Kamal meaning lotus in many Indian languages.

Kamal kadai is especially favored for its elegant and refined finish, which appeals to aesthetic sensibilities that value subtlety and detail. It is often featured in exhibitions and craft fairs, both within India and internationally, as an example of fine Indian needlework.

Kantha - Bengal

Traditional kantha embroidery is a significant and traditional art form originating from the rural areas of Bengal and has a history that dates back several centuries. Originally, it was a craft practiced by women who reused old cloth and layers of saris, stitching them together with a simple running stitch to make quilts and clothing. This form of embroidery was not only a practical solution for keeping warm but also a creative outlet that allowed women to express their artistic abilities.

Over time, Kantha became an integral cultural heritage of Bengal, reflecting motifs and imagery that capture aspects of rural life, nature, and folklore. Significant historical events like the revival of ethnic crafts in post-independence India helped propel Kantha to the forefront of the cultural arts scene, enhancing its visibility and appreciation.

As traditional Kantha embroidery gained popularity, it spread beyond Bengal to other parts of India and the world, with each region introducing its variations and adaptations. Unlike the luxurious and ornate English goldwork, Kantha is recognized for its simplicity and the use of simple materials like cotton thread and old fabrics. Today, Kantha is not just used in traditional settings but has also been embraced by the fashion industry, where it adds a touch of handcrafted elegance to modern garments and home decor.

Karchobi - Rajasthan

Karchobi, a form of raised zari metallic thread embroidery, originates from the royal state of Rajasthan in India. It began as a courtly craft during the Mughal era, primarily to meet the demands of the royalty and aristocracy who favored opulent attire and furnishings. The embroidery is characterized by its heavy and intricate designs, which were stitched onto velvet or heavier fabrics. Significant events like royal weddings and religious ceremonies often influenced the motifs and the proliferation of this craft.

Traditionally, this embroidery was done by skilled male artisans known as zardozi karigars, who passed down their craft through generations. Today, Karchobi is not as prevalent as lighter and more cost-effective styles but is still used in bridal trousseaus and for decorating posh interiors and ceremonial garments. Examples of Karchobi can be admired at the Albert Hall Museum, located at Ram Niwas Garden, Jaipur, Rajasthan.

Kasuti or Kasuthi - Karnataka

Kasuti, a traditional form of embroidery from Karnataka, is a skillful art that dates back to the Chalukya period. It originated in the Dharwad region of Karnataka, around the 7th century AD, influenced by the demands of the royal court and the prevalent socio-cultural fabric of the time. The patterns and motifs used in Kasuti reflect the temples, palaces, and natural life of Karnataka, incorporating symbols like chariots, elephants, and peacocks.

Unlike other traditional embroidery styles that may use gold threads or be laden with jewels, Kasuti is known for its simplicity and subtlety, focusing on the intricacy of the stitch work rather than the opulence of the materials. The technique involves counting threads to ensure perfect symmetry, a process that does not use any sketches or tracing, distinguishing it from styles like English goldwork.

While traditionally it was done by the women of the household to adorn sarees, dupattas, and household linen, it is now celebrated in fashion and home decor.

Kathi - Gujarat

Kathi embroidery, originating from the Kutch region of Gujarat, is an ancient craft with roots stretching back to the 16th and 17th centuries, during the reign of the Mughal Empire. Its development was significantly influenced by cultural exchanges brought about through trade routes that passed through Gujarat, enriching the local textile practices with diverse artistic influences. This style is distinguished by its vibrant use of color and intricate motifs that often depict folklore, local flora, and fauna. Over the years, Kathi embroidery spread to other regions, adapting to local tastes which introduced variations in stitch techniques and motif designs, while still maintaining its characteristic bold and elaborate detailing.

Today, it continues to be used in traditional attire such as turbans, skirts, and shawls, and has found new life in global fashion and home decor. This vibrant embroidery can be found in the Kutch Museum in Bhuj, Gujarat, offering an extensive collection showcasing the evolution and craftsmanship of Kathi embroidery. Located at Ghanshyam Nagar, Bhuj, this museum serves as a cultural repository that celebrates and preserves the rich textile heritage of the region.

Khneng - Meghalaya

Khneng embroidery from Meghalaya is a lesser-known but culturally rich form of traditional embroidery, practiced primarily by the Khasi community. This unique style is notable for its technique that involves embroidering on eri silk, a practice that dates back several generations but lacks precise historical documentation. The technique and the motifs used are deeply ingrained in the Khasi culture and often carry symbolic meanings related to their myths and daily life.

Khneng embroidery is distinct from other Traditional Embroideries of India primarily due to its method and cultural significance. Unlike the more common embroideries that focus on surface embellishments, Khneng is integrated into the weaving process itself.

Today, Khneng embroidery is not widely practiced outside its region due to its intricate and labor-intensive process, but it remains a vital part of Khasi cultural identity. It is primarily used in traditional shawls and wraps that play a significant role in local ceremonies and festivities.

Kutchi Bharat/Sindhi Stitch - Gujarat

Kutchi Bharat, also known as Sindhi stitch or Aribharat, is a vibrant and intricate form of Traditional Embroideries of India originating from the Kutch region of Gujarat. This embroidery style originated centuries ago and gained prominence in the 16th and 17th centuries as local communities commercialized their craft, supported by wealthy merchants and royalty. The art was heavily influenced by the cultural exchanges that occurred due to trade with the neighboring regions and countries.

This style of embroidery is known for its rich colors, elaborate designs using mirrors, and a variety of stitches that create a raised effect, distinguishing it significantly from the flatter styles of English goldwork, which primarily uses gold and silver threads to create ornamental stitches. Kutchi Bharat is typically done by women, who learn the craft as part of their heritage.

Kashmiri Embroidery - Jammu & Kashmir

Kashmiri embroidery, also known as Kashida, is a renowned form of Traditional Embroideries of India that originates from the picturesque region of Jammu and Kashmir. The history of Kashmiri embroidery can be traced back to the 14th century, influenced by Persian motifs that local artisans adapted to include native designs such as flowers, fruits, birds, and leaves.

Kashida has spread throughout India and beyond, often featured in high-end fashion and traditional wear like shawls, sarees, and kurtas. Unlike other traditional embroideries that may use gold threads or beads, Kashmiri embroidery relies solely on the subtlety of thread work to bring out the intricate details and lush imagery characteristic of Kashmiri craft.

Muqaish (Mukaish) Work - Uttar Pradesh

Muqaish Work, also known as Mukaish, is a traditional form of embroidery originating from Uttar Pradesh, particularly famous in the city of Lucknow. This form of embroidery involves twisting thin strips of metallic wire, typically silver or gold, and inserting them into the fabric to create intricate patterns. Historically, Muqaish Work was used to adorn the garments of the royal families and nobility, reflecting their opulent lifestyle and status.

Over the years, Muqaish Work has seen various adaptations, including the use of cheaper metals and the incorporation of the technique into more modern designs to suit contemporary fashion trends. Despite its evolution, embroidery continues to hold a place of esteem in Indian haute couture, particularly in bridal and evening wear.

Phulkari (Punjab and Haryana)

Phool Patti ka Kaam (Phool Patti work) is a traditional form of embroidery from Uttar Pradesh, especially celebrated in the city of Aligarh. This art form is known for its floral and foliage motifs, hence the name Phool Patti, which translates to flower and leaf work. This embroidery style involves creating elaborate designs using colorful appliqué techniques where pieces of fabric in the shapes of flowers, leaves, and sometimes geometric patterns are stitched onto a base fabric.

What sets Phool Patti work apart from other types of traditional Indian embroidery is its use of fabric cutouts rather than threadwork on the surface of the garment or fabric. Unlike more intricate thread-based embroideries like Zardozi or Chikankari, Phool Patti ka Kaam is less about the finesse of stitches and more about the composition and color play within the design.

Phulkari (Punjab and Haryana)

As we all know, Punjab is one of the most lively states of India. If you are wondering, what is the traditional embroidery of Punjab, here is Phulkari for you! Phulkari, or flower work, is a vibrant traditional embroidery from Punjab and Haryana, adorning shawls, dupattas, and headscarves. Originating in the 15th century, it is deeply rooted in the rural traditions, often crafted by women to celebrate significant events like marriages. Phulkari features silken thread motifs that reflect the local agricultural lifestyle, including flora, fauna, and village scenes.

Phulkari is traditionally crafted with stitches on the reverse side of coarse cotton, allowing the front to display vibrant colors and patterns. As Phulkari gained popularity, it spread beyond Punjab and Haryana, evolving into diverse styles that blend traditional and modern motifs to suit contemporary fashion.

Phulkari remains an important cultural symbol in Punjab and Haryana, often celebrated at festivals and family events. It is a key part of the local textile industry and has gained international recognition for its craftsmanship and beauty.

Pipli (Odisha)

Pipli, a vibrant and colorful form of appliqué work, hails from the town of Pipli in Odisha, India. This traditional craft has been practiced for centuries, initially serving to adorn temples and the chariots of the deities during the famous Jagannath Rath Yatra. The origins of Pipli are linked to the establishment of the Jagannath temple and the cultural traditions surrounding the temple rituals, which required elaborate decorations. Artisans, known as Darji(s) or tailors, were settled in Pipli by the kings of Odisha to create these decorations, and over time, the craft evolved into a thriving local industry.

Pipli is distinctive for its use of bright fabrics cut into various shapes and sewn onto a larger base fabric, creating vivid, multi-layered designs that often feature motifs like elephants, flowers, and divine figures. This craft differs significantly from other traditional embroideries of India as it primarily involves applique technique rather than thread-based embroidery. This art is now a significant cultural symbol for Odisha and a substantial source of income for the local communities.

Rabari (Rajasthan and Gujarat)

The Rabari embroidery, also known as Rabari Bharat, is a distinct and vibrant form of needlework practiced by the Rabari or Rewari community, predominantly found in Rajasthan and Gujarat. The origins of Rabari embroidery are tied to the mythology and their migratory nature, which often features motifs inspired by local folklore, the desert environment, and the animals they herd.

Characterized by bold, geometric designs, mirror work, and the use of bright, vivid colors, Rabari embroidery is notable for its aesthetic richness and cultural depth. The craft involves a variety of stitches, with each subgroup within the Rabari community, such as the Dhebaria, Kachhi, and Vaghadia, having its own distinctive style and patterns. These variations reflect the artistic diversity within the community and also show how the embroidery has adapted to different regional influences encountered during their migrations.

Rabari women traditionally undertake this embroidery work as a way to create garments and textiles for household use, ceremonial costumes, and gifts. It is celebrated beyond its origins for its unique blend of tradition and creativity, finding its way into the global fashion and home décor markets.

Shisha or Mirrorwork (Gujarat, Haryana, Rajasthan)

Shisha or Mirrorwork embroidery, traditionally known as Abhla Bharat, is a popular form of embroidery from India, prominently seen in Gujarat, Haryana, and Rajasthan. The technique involves fixing small pieces of mirrors or reflective metal into fabric using various stitches to create vibrant patterns. This embroidery style is believed to have originated in 17th century India, although some theories suggest it was introduced from Iran. Shisha embroidery was initially used to ward off evil spirits and, over time, became a decorative art used in clothing and household textiles like curtains, pillows, and quilts.

In Gujarat, it is often part of the colorful costumes of local tribes and is used extensively in festive wear and decorations.

In Rajasthan, Shisha work typically features alongside rich, elaborate embroidery that includes floral and animal motifs, reflecting the royal heritage of the region. The mirror work of Haryana is more restrained, often integrating smaller mirrors into larger geometric patterns.

Sujini Embroidery

Sujini embroidery is a traditional craft form from Bihar, India, distinguished by its unique quilting and embroidery techniques. The embroidery involves a simple running stitch used to create elaborate narrative designs on layers of old saris or cloth, which are then quilted together, giving the artwork a distinctive texture and appearance.

Sujini was used as a way for women to come together in a communal setting, creating embroidered quilts as dowries for their daughters or to mark significant life events. The themes depicted in Sujini are often vibrant and poignant, reflecting the perspectives of the artist on issues ranging from romance and domestic life to social and political events.

Efforts to preserve and promote Sujini embroidery are underway, helping to sustain the livelihoods of the artisans and keep this unique tradition alive in the contemporary textile industry.

Toda Embroidery

Toda embroidery, also known as pukhoor, is a unique and intricate form of needlework practiced by the Toda community in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu. This traditional embroidery stands out for its distinctive style, which primarily involves black, red, and white threads on a coarse, usually dark-colored, handwoven fabric. The patterns and motifs used in Toda embroidery are deeply symbolic and are often inspired by the pastoral lifestyle of the Toda people, featuring stylized representations of animals, flowers, and other geometric designs that hold cultural significance.

The craft of Toda embroidery is believed to have ancient origins, possibly linked to the Toda community and their early cultural and spiritual practices. Traditionally, this form of embroidery was used to decorate the shawls called poothkuli that are an integral part of Toda traditional dress. Women in the community are the primary custodians of this embroidery technique, and they pass down their skills from one generation to the next, ensuring the continuity of their cultural heritage.

Toda embroidery is done with a darning stitch worked from the reverse side of the fabric, resulting in a distinctive, embossed look that makes the patterns appear to stand out from the fabric background. This technique creates a beautiful contrast and makes Toda embroidery highly recognizable and visually striking.

Zardozi

Zardozi, also known as Zari or Kalabattu, is an elaborate form of embroidery that originated in ancient India. This magnificent craft, which involves embroidering gold and silver threads onto fabric, has been associated with opulence and royalty for centuries. Historically, Zardozi reached its zenith during the Mughal era, where it was patronized by emperors who adorned their palatial decor and regal attire with this intricate embroidery. The art form flourished in cities like Lucknow, Hyderabad, and parts of Rajasthan, each developing a distinctive style influenced by local traditions.

Traditionally, craftsmen used a special needle called an aari to weave the designs, a practice that requires immense skill and patience. Over time, with the decline of royal patronage and the high cost of materials, Zardozi saw a decline in its traditional form but has experienced a revival in recent years, thanks to efforts to preserve traditional crafts and the growing interest in luxury fashion.

Today, Zardozi is celebrated both in India and internationally for its exquisite beauty and craftsmanship. While still used in bridal wear and haute couture, it has also found applications in creating statement pieces for home decor.